Installing my Campers water tank ?

Questions, comments, discussions and reviews on equipment, outdoor gear etc.

Postby Cruzin » Wed May 09, 2007 6:47 am

Hi Komodo,
Not sure whether it was "double dipped" never really thought about it.
But I can say that there are a nuber of holes in the various sections of metal work throughout the body work and chassis to let the galv escape.
If you look closely at the pic above you'll see relief holes on the horizontal braces to the "outriggers" ie outriggers hold the rear rack. (not to be confused with the welded on bolts for capturing the racks)

Sharp Welding made the trailer and their speciality is fabrication of semi-trailer bogeys etc maybe their galvaniser can handle larger sizes.

Some additional pics below may display them better.

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This pic shows the pole holder on the front rack - now moved to the rear

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rgds Shane T
Shane - KZN185; PolyAir Bags; Uniden UH050XR 5xWatt UHF; 65ltr Evacool & a DIY CT under construction
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Postby mr_grumble » Wed May 09, 2007 12:38 pm

Cruzin wrote:Hi Steve,
Yeah, I like the OzTrail 12 camper but my tailgate swings out to passenger side.
I have enquired with Oztrail supplier but he states they only come suitable for a trailer with a drop down tailgate or one that swings to driver's side.

I have seen an Oztrail on a trailer similar to mine, just gotta get my head around the pros and cons of outlaying dollars for a "reverse unfolding tent top"

What brake set-up did you go for?

rgds Shane T


I can't see any reason why the Oztrail wouldn't work with the tailgate hinged on either side. The only downfall is that the tailgate opens under the awning, not a big problem as far as I can see. In one respect I see an advantage, our kitchen slides out on the drivers side, the awning on that side doesn't quite extend to the side enough to completely cover the kitchen, I'd have to put up the walls to ensure 100% weather protection. With yours, (assuming you have a kitchen arrangement), your tailgate would swing out under the awning fully ensuring you would have complete weather protection of the kitchen area.

Do you have a kangeroo tent city handy ? They are currently selling camptop/trailer packages, you could go in and have a look at one they have set-up and see it really doesn't make all that much diff whether the tailgate swings to the left ot to the right :)
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Postby mr_grumble » Wed May 09, 2007 1:13 pm

The only other thing I can see that you would need is a support rail across the rear of the trailer to support the camptop base.
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Postby Cruzin » Wed May 09, 2007 8:30 pm

Very very nice Steve.

Yes I am tossing up about the reverse top.. and no we don't have a "kangaroo city" chain in Brisbane. pity

My trailer height unladen is 1180mm and laden is 1000mm or thereabouts, so the "off the shelf" chinese imports are creating a problem with the "floor bucket" ie so high you would trip over them in the dark.

I have received a promising lead via a Sunshine Coast importer but it will be a "one off" and they will need $$$ up front to manufacture.

I am also looking at Aussie made tops.

Re: your spreader bar at the rear, I would think that the diagonal supports rods would have been enough (or maybe something a slightly thicker.)

On my CT you will note the 50mm square section outriggers and cross brace, they should be okay to hold the rear sides apart but they will be reduced in height to accommodate the "lift up tent top" when purchased. (as will the front outriggers) slight design prob on my part -- I did think of it initially but got carried away in the fabrication ie I forgot.

BTW what brakes system did you go for and why?

rgds Shane T
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Postby mr_grumble » Wed May 09, 2007 8:41 pm

Our overall trailer height comes to 1070 which luckily enough seems to be spot on :armsup
I have 235_70_16 wheels on currently which give the perfect height, but would like to fit the same as the Pajero, 265_70_16 which will add another 20-30mm in height which I will experiment with soon.

I went for Mech Override Drums.

Avoided Electric because of $$ and troubles I've had with them previously. When you in the middle of whop whop, not easy to faultfind and fix :?

Drums seem to be up to the task and are easy to fix in the field, I've been talking to others with mech dicss and alot have had issues with stones etc becoming stuck in places they shouldn't resulting in rapid wear and poor performance.
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Postby Cruzin » Thu May 10, 2007 8:24 pm

Thanx for the info on the brakes Steve

It's amazing how another's perspective can clear up the "what ifs and what nots" spinning around in your head..
In the end "keep it simple" says it all

rgds Shane T
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Postby s4j » Fri May 25, 2007 1:18 am

Ok...I must apologize....but I looked at the thread title and then saw the pic of the tank under the wheel and thought....Ummmm that's not where it goes... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Yeah it's late and I'm not even done with checking this forum....

Seriously though...we bought the camel one to put on our Customline...and it fit between the struts just fine...although the mounting brackets were already in place....friends had to add their own...

Just a tip though....to get rid of the 'plastic' taste...we were told by an old time camper to use bi-carb in the filled tank and drive it around to 'slosh it up'....so Hubby towed it to work one day....emptied, then re-did...emptied again but to the next tank full add about 1/2 a bottle of Vanilla essence...and take it for a drive again.....then empty and flush out...and you wouldn't know the difference from the water at home......said friends cant' taste the 'plastic' in theirs but I can....ours is just perfect...HTH
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