Battery Setup for Trailer.

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Postby VADLEM » Thu May 24, 2007 8:32 pm

Ours runs 70amp wiring from the second battery(overkill) through circuit breaker to anderson plug setup,then onto the trailer battery. I have two ciggy outlets and four other outlets which are the large type microphone plugs with swithes on all.(40 amp wiring). I have the air pump a kickbutt cordless drill,lights and so on. Made it all myself just some commonsence and your away.
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Postby Bearded shark » Tue May 29, 2007 11:47 pm

It's really simple. I have dual batts in my cruza and my camper trailer has a lge batt of its own. All u need 2 do (other than mount it safely & externally) is wire up a second plug that u connect when connecting yor trailer. This is just to charge the batt as the u r driving. It need only be as a set of jumper leads in thoery. The plug I have (can't think of the name) but it's grey & comes in 2 sizes (most auto stores have them individually). The larger of the 2 is the 1 most electric forklifts use to charge up. I mounted the 1 on my car next to my utilux plug but even that is mounted up high away from water spray etc. I have a long cable on my trailer to suit. U can either buy a couple of jumper leads, pull the clamps off & set them up or u can buy 4 or 8 guage cable, which can be up 2 $12/M, given that u will need approx 7-8M for pos+ & the same for neg- thats up 2 $190 of cable. I used 8 guage. It is not necesary 2 use 4 guage (batt lead size) as it is only needed as a "charge" cable. Just make sure that the minimum specified amp rating of the cable is more then the amps output of yor alternator.
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Battery Pack

Postby paps » Wed May 30, 2007 12:09 am

Thanks for the info. Well I wussed out and have it booked in with an Auto Electrician. I will let you know the outcome.

Decided to go with a 120AH battery in the trailer (will add a second if needed but not for a while) and a smart solanoid in the car. I may go for a smart charger as well but I am holding off for now and will get a cheapy trickle charge. Adding 6 12v points. 2 next to the bed, 2 at the kitchen and another 2 at the tailgate of the trailer. This will line up withe the centre pool of the annex to allow me to hang a light. Lighting wise I have order 2 x torpedo lights.

If I understand all this correctly it is easy to add components etc later. Once I get a fridge I will wire that up myself. All the hardwork is done by the electrician. :-)

Cheers
Ben
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Postby Komodo » Wed May 30, 2007 12:06 pm

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Thats an anderson plug

is that what your talking about bearded shark? they come in 4 sizes actually and about 4 different configs for auxilary switching. You only need the small size (50amp rated) standard 2 pole ones :D

They work well I use them in the 'trol but ive got the 180amp rated units (2nd largest) mind you I also use 0ga cabling (gotta love having freinds at stinger electronics :P)
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Postby Kramer » Wed May 30, 2007 12:28 pm

I am not sure whether this has been posted here already but here is a great article on how to hook up a battery in your camper that can be charged from your car.

http://www.exploroz.com/Vehicle/Electri ... rging.aspx
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Postby Bearded shark » Wed May 30, 2007 9:24 pm

yep...that b it. I had a mental blank, hehe. 50amp is not enuf tho coz most cars now have 80A alts at least. Betta over-compensate than under to save damage etc
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Postby Komodo@home » Wed May 30, 2007 11:19 pm

To behonest bearded shark I used to think that way (thats what my text book would tell me from studying electrical engineering) but its not true your alt will put out 80 amps (or in many cases 120 or more amps) but if you look at a graph of where and when its making that power you'll find its actually not happening a great deal. plus you have to apply a voltage greater to induce a charge thus you have to bring the main upto voltage too so half that current (40 amps lets say) will be going to the main and the other half to the aux. but the wiring will cause a voltage drop from the current draw caused by the lower voltage in the aux thus the draw will in fact be lower and the voltage will quickly come up and the charge rate will be lower at 13+ volts

So if you have a 50 amp plug no need to change it to 120 or 180 amp plug plus you probably dont have the wiring nor the isolator that would make use of the large plug :)
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Battery

Postby paps » Wed May 30, 2007 11:25 pm

Is that english?
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Another question

Postby paps » Thu May 31, 2007 7:17 pm

Hi again,

Ok...I got my trailer wired up today with a 130ah battery and 6 cigarette points. Very happy. so my question is how do you best monitor the battery? I have been told you should run them to less that have charged. How do you know when its half charged?

I have seen the monitors you can plug in but at what voltage is half? Sorry if its a dumb question

Cheers
Ben
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Postby Cruzin » Thu May 31, 2007 9:01 pm

Ben,
Go to this site, click on the messages link, use the search engine with the word "monitor" and you will get approx 10 messages with different links on the subject.

The site also has good resources ie search through the various links on LHS of main page.

http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/campertrailers/

They also have a Web page here, with a lot of resource links at the top of the page

http://www.campertrailers.org/


rgds Shane T
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Meters

Postby paps » Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:21 pm

Thanks Shane,

Great web site. Some really good info and ideas there. This project is really worth a look at. http://www.campertrailers.org/des_12v_trailer_wiring.pdf

One of the monitors they mentioned on the site stated:
"It uses 3 LEDs (12.6V Full, 12.0V 50% and 11.5V Low, to indicate battery condition)"

Is this the general rule of thumb? i.e. 12.0 volt = 50% battery charge??

Cheers
Ben
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Postby Cruzin » Sun Jun 03, 2007 10:06 pm

Hi Paps,
I have always been guided by my fellow members at that site over the last 4 years.

I have been building a CT for the last 5 months.

I haven't got into the 12Volt thing as yet but did manage to visit "Springers" for an opinion on my requirements this Sat just gone.
I have room for a 2nd bat under the bonnet, but I don't need it for anything in the vehicle, my query was about a 2nd bat system whereby the bat was easily removed from the vehicle to the CT or campsite or
was placed on the CT for transit or I wanted 2xbat in vehicle and a 3rd bat in the CT - sort of built-in redundancy..

They have a ready made steel box (viewable on their web site) that costs about half what it has cost me for my 2x daughters over the last 20 odd years.
But they also have a sysytem that will do it for me, all up installed with a 120amphr AGM batt was just nudging $1k.

Still dreaming

rgds
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